The Indian Couturiers Courting the West

Where do you go when you’ve already dressed the biggest stars in your country?

GettyImages-2157087257 rihanna
Rihanna arrives at the Rihanna x Fenty Hair Los Angeles Launch Party at Nya Studios on June 10, 2024 in Los Angeles (Kayla Oaddams/WireImage)

Sneha Mehta

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November 13, 2024

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8 min

When Rihanna stepped out at the Fenty Hair launch in June, it wasn’t her red leather ensemble — a custom Khaite slouchy jacket and scrunched maxi skirt — that stole the show. It was her jewelry. The singer and beauty mogul wore two necklaces by India’s most prominent designers: the first, an intricate choker with star-shaped rubies paired with diamonds from Manish Malhotra; the second, a cascading three-stone rubellite, tourmaline, and diamond pendant from Sabyasachi. Not only did the look garner heart eyes all over social media, it also made history — no celebrity had paired the two designers before.

While European brands like Dior and Louis Vuitton have been chasing growth by targeting India’s luxury market, expected to grow to $90 billion by 2030, a group of Indian designers are taking on a completely orthogonal strategy: going after audiences beyond Indians around the world. When everyone wants to be in your country, why look outward? We spoke to the designers to find out why.

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